From the Summer 2001 Issue
PEOPLE & PLACES
THE GREAT WALL OF CHINA
6000 kilometres of Wonderful Wall
By Jennifer Iveson

Stretching
over 6,000 Stretching over 6,000 kms. from the mountains of Korea
to the Gobi Desert, the Great Wall of China is the largest structure
built by human hands, and the only man-made construction visible
to astronauts orbiting in space.
Building
of the Wall began over 9,000 years ago and was initially hundreds
of miles of separated fortifications built by various rulers of
China's independent states. But around 220 B.C., Shi Huang Di
became the first emperor of a united China and decided that the
various walls needed to be fortified and joined together. He ordered
thousands of watchtowers to be built 12 metres tall and 12 square
metres at their base with 6-metre walls of granite joining them.
This
was obviously a massive undertaking and required thousands of
workers. Over 300,000 workmen, criminals and political prisoners
were dragged off to build the wall. Many died from malnutrition,
fighting, or just plain exhaustion before even getting to the
construction sites. It is rumoured that some of the dead were
buried in the foundations of the wall to ward off evil spirits.
For
the surviving workers, the problem they faced was the ever-changing
terrain as they travelled west. There wasn't always rock available,
so they used earth and rubble that they pounded until it was hard.
In other places the hills were so steep that oxen couldn't pull
the carts of rock up to the building site, so the men themselves
carried the rocks on their backs. In the desert, the wall was
built using sand, pebbles and grass.
But
why go to all the trouble? The obvious answer is protection: keeping
enemies of the empire out, although, at the time construction
first began, China didn't have any powerful enemies. Besides,
the wall would require far too many people to man it. It seems
the wall may have been much more effective at keeping the Chinese
people in than at keeping enemies out. But Some say the wall was
really built to satisfy the emperor's paranoia and his love of
grandiose schemes and that his officials supported the excessive
structure as it was also a great way to keep criminals busy.
Whatever
the emperor's reason, he didn't live long enough to play it out.
He died in 210 B.C. and thanks to a lot of squabbling and deceit,
his dynasty, called the Qin dynasty, collapsed only four years
later. The Han dynasty that followed used the Wall effectively
to ward off enemies, but after that dynasty's collapse, enemy
tribes gained power in the north, and held it for some 400 years.
It was refortified, and in the 13th century A.D., the Mongol invader
Genghis Khan took two years to break through it.
In
the 14th century, the Ming dynasty did some extensive renovations
to the badly eroded wall, extended it to its 6,400 kms. and added
cannons, and decorations. Today, The Wall is considered one of
the great wonders of the world. UNESCO (United Nations Educational,
Scientific and Cultural Organization) put it on the world heritage
list in 1987 to ensure its preservation and its place in history.
When
the Manchus took control of China in 1644, the wall ceased to
have military significance. The empire now extended well north
of the wall, and China's new enemies were to come from a different
direction - across the sea. Today, although the wall no longer
plays any role in China's defence system it has become a symbol
of the nation and the ingenuity and will of the people.
To really appreciate the Great Wall, you must spend more than
just one afternoon at it. There are so many sections, all with
a different kind of appeal to the avid tourist. But be prepared
to walk! There are sections where each step on the top of the
wall is three feet high. Or you can be a little more adventurous
like Robin and Louella Hanbury-Tenison who rode alongside the
wall on horseback for 1,600 km. And if you're really extreme,
you can follow in the footsteps of William Lindesay, an Englishman
who ran for 2,470 km along the Great Wall and wrote a book, Alone
on the Great Wall (Hodder & Stoughton 1989).
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